Berlin und München
The idea for this trip began last April when my roommate/landlord/good friend Dale Stein (a frequent world traveler) suggested I go visit our mutual friend Dana Brüller in Berlin with him in August. Of course, after the financial centrifuge I'd put myself through for the better part of the decade, I protested. I simply did not have the kind of money to drop on airfare (especially with summer European rates), even though we had a free place to stay. Dale insisted that it would be a great experience, and all but begged me to tag along. I held my ground. As attractive as it sounded (especially with how much I loved my European study-abroad ten years earlier), and as much as I really wanted to do it, I knew it just wasn't feasible......until Dale made a suggestion I hadn't thought about. He suggested that he'd pay for both tickets and I could just pay him back an extra hundred bucks a month in rent until I paid it off. This was a fantastic idea. I finally agreed and began to get excited...especially because my other good friend, Elizabeth Dicks, had moved there two summers ago and had come back on occasion and told me how amazing it is.
As we flew over Berlin, I noticed that the trees were a bit less green. It looked as though they may have had a drier summer than usual. The Berlin-Tegel airport was similar to Stockholm in its efficiency and minimalism. Before we knew it, we were on a bus to the Central Train Station (Berlin Hauptbahnhof). There, I bought a 10€ T-Mobile phone card and called Elizabeth (by the way, all pay phones are hot pink T-Mobile phones). Elizabeth arrived within 20 minutes or so, and helped us navigate our way on the S-Bahn and U-Bahn to Kreuzberg (a borough full of history itself, as well as the area we were staying) with a stop-off at the famous Alexanderplatz to see the Fernsehturm Berlin (TV Tower). Finally, we made our way to the Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn stop in Kreuzberg with only a couple blocks walk to Dana's dorm on Adalbertstraße. It was surreal. I'd made it nearly 5000 miles from home (the furthest I've been...even a few hundred miles further than Honolulu in the opposite direction).
The next week was a whirlwind of sight-seeing, shopping (mostly in the touristy Mitte area and hipster Prenzlauer Berg),
and going out... Berlin itself is a city unlike other European
cities... It was virtually destroyed by the Allied Forces as they
closed in on Berlin in the mid '40s, proceeded by a division down the
middle of the city dividing East (Communist Russia) and the West
(Britain, France, and America), and has only been unified for the past
19 years (most all of the wall is now gone with no border or markers as
a way for Berliners to mover forward from the past). There is a
definitive difference between the aesthetics of East and West. West
Berlin is a bit cleaner and more traditionally "European," whereas East
Berlin is a bit more spread out, less ornate, and a bit poorer. To put
in comparison to fellow Atlantans, it would be the difference between
the "niceness" of Buckhead and Midtown versus the "grittiness" of
Cabbagetown and Old Fourth Ward (only amplified on a bigger and grander
scale). Most of the typical European architecture in Berlin was
destroyed, badly damaged, or rebuilt (in some cases rebuilt with a more
modern feel). Berlin feels like a gigantic, spread out Brooklyn with
attitudes to match. It was actually kind of hard to believe I was in
Europe except for the language barrier. The weather was a welcome
change for me. It remained mostly sunny for the better part of the
week with highs in the low to mid '70s with lows in the mid to upper
'50s. It rained (drizzled) only two days, so it was a bit cooler on
those days. Even though the mascot for Berlin is a bear, I honestly
think it should've been a yellow jacket. There is a definite
infestation....worse than flies. However, they aren't as aggressive as
they are persistent around food. Most Berliners brush them away like
flies, unfettered by the potential anger from the bees.
The best part about our stay is that it was Dana's last week in Berlin for the summer program she was attending (a study of Jewish culture in Berlin - which is sadly lacking in Berlin's religious landscape to this day). We were able to meet a lot of her fellow students the night we got there for their last night on the town, as well as their Shabbat dinner the next evening. It was a great group of students of various ages, backgrounds, and countries. It reminded me quite a bit of my study-abroad at Oxford ten years ago. Dana's roommates Marnie and Sheer were excellent hosts, though Marnie moved out a day or two later to her own apartment. Sheer's good friend Valerie came to visit from Israel the day after Dale and I arrived. We immediately clicked with her and did quite a bit of day-time sight-seeing together. In the evenings, we all had wine and dinner at home as Dale was our personal chef and cooked an array of delicious dishes. Later at night, we'd all go out as a group to various nightspots. Sometimes, we'd just grab a beer from a corner market and drink it on the way (oh yeah, you can do that on the street and on the train in Europe). i would be lying if I said it's not expensive for Americans. The conversion rate was about $1.50 = 1
€. However, it's very cheap for Berliners since they're making euros instead of American dollars. A typical beer anywhere costs around 2,50€. Therefore, a good rule of thumb is to almost double any price you see. This is another reason we didn't go to many restaurants, and saved our money for nightlclubs and touristy things. It was refreshing to not be on a time schedule of any sort, as well as come and go at our leisure...the way a vacation should be.
As
the week came to a close, Dana prepared to go to her home city of
Munich, and Dale and I planned to meet her there. The cheapest and
fastest way to travel between the two cities is NOT the train. The train costs about 70
We
arrived in Munich exactly one week after we arrived in Berlin. The two
cities couldn't be more different. Dana lives at the city center on
Kanalstraße a block or so from the Isartor S-Bahn stop and the old
city. Munich is the capitol of the German state of Bavaria,
rich in culture and history. However, like Berlin, it is also a city
of a turbulent past. Munich is clean, touristy, and aesthetically
gorgeous...much like one would imagine it to be. Most of the surviving
architecture can be attributed to Ludwig I
(1825 - 1848) who had a penchant for late 18th century neoclassic
architecture, though there is much left from medieval and renaissance
periods as well. It is also common to see traditional Bavarian dress
in the touristy spots (dirndl and lederhosen). Oktoberfest draws a massive crowd every year. However, on the flipside of the historical beauty lies an ugly recent past. The National Socialist German Workers' Party
began as a small, radical right-wing political group in Munich to whom
no one paid much attention, and quickly increased momentum throughout
the '20s until they gained the majority in the German parliament and
President Paul von Hindenburg appointed Hitler as Chancellor in 1933.
Shortly after, The Reichstag Fire Decree
was passed which "amended" the German constitution by suspending civil
liberties for "national security" during this time of "crisis." The
rest is history. The Nazis quickly established headquarters and
offices in many historic buildings and landmarks throughout Munich as a
way of defining the past, present, and future of Germany. As a result,
many landmarks have a dual history. Munich also marred by the 1972 Olympics,
where Israeli competitors were held hostage and later killed by
Palestinian terrorists. Today, Munich is economically booming with
opulent (hedging on obscene) displays of wealth (especially on Maximilianstraße). Englischer Garten
(a large park near the city center) is one of the world's largest
public parks and contains a nudist area (we saw one man in particular
who permanently scarred us). It also contains a beautiful Biergarten
at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Pagoda). The weather in Munich is a
bit warmer than Berlin and so are the people. All in all, it was
fantastic to be able to experience the two cities.
To see personal pics of my trip, visit www.myspace.com/chuckjones or www.facebook.com/
Below is a guide to sights, shops, and bar/nightclubs in both Berlin and Munich...
BERLIN
Sights (all hyperlinked for historical reference):
World Clock
Friedrichstraße
(Mitte) - A nightlife and cabaret district in the 1920s that was
destroyed in WWII and later transformed into the main shopping
thoroughfare in Berlin today (much like the 5th/Madison/Lexington
shopping district of Manhattan).
Straße des 17 Juni - Commemorates the 1953 East Berliners' Upsrising against Communism.
Nightlife:
Weltempfänger (Mitte-Tiergarten-Wedding) We went here the first night in Berlin for Dana's program's '90s party. It's a small, cool dance space underneath the main bar/restaurant.
C.C.C.P. (Mitte) These are the only letters outside the door of the club in Mitte (translated to the U.S.S.R. - communist themed). This was the second place we went on the night our arrival (Thursday). I LOVED IT. The DJ played an outstanding blend of '60s, '80s, and current indie. I was very impressed by some of the tracks...especially "Shakin' All Over" by The Guess Who. Unfortunately, Dale was so jet-lagged, he slept right next to the DJ booth (what a compliment to the DJ!). I met a German girl named Sarah who kept trying to wake him up. Thank you Elizabeth for bringing me here!
Monarch - (Skalitzer Straße 134, at Kottbusser Tor, 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg) We went here the next night (Friday). The original plan was to go to Bang-Bang, but Dana deemed it a bit too hipster and too pretentious. We wanted something a little more laid-back. We found it. Dana brought us to this great space located upstairs from the Turkish Center literally across the street from the Kottbusser U-Bahn stop. The door leading to the stairwell is only marked with Turkish Center-related information. We discovered Friday night is the best night to go as the DJs play an eclectic set of music (mostly laid-back Britpop...though, he did throw in "Turn it Up" by Robots in Disguise to spice it up).
Bang-Bang (Mitte) - I actually didn't get a chance to attend their infamous Friday nights, but I'm sure there are hipsters galore dancing to the latest indietronicelektroneuerave sound. When checking out the Myspace page (click the name), I discovered they actually play a lot of Mod. I'll have to go next time around.
Luzia (Kreuzberg) - This was our most common hangout throughout the trip. It was only blocks away, and very cool. By day, it is a cafe, and by night it's a lounge/bar with a small dance space and DJ booth. Most of the furnishings are antique (including the light fixtures). It maintains a very casual and trendy atmosphere. Most of the music is more of a downtempo kind of feel. It's a nice relaxing place to have a drink.
Roses (Oranienstraße 187, 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg) - A whole-in-the-wall kitschy gay bar in the heart of Kreuzberg. The bartender is a little firecracker. She'd love you one minute, then turn on a dime the next minute. I felt like I was dealing with someone who had Multiple Personality Disorder. However, it was highly entertaining, and uber-tacky. I loved it.
Barbie Deinhoff's (Kreuzberg) - Another kitschy gay/indie bar with FANTASTIC music. The DJ on this particular night (Tuesday) played lots of '80s and electro (including some obscurities I'd never heard outside my iPod. GREAT!). There are lots of dolls as wall decorations. It's a hot pink theme. For Atlantans, it reminds me a lot of Mary's, only smaller. Elizabeth met her first Berliner boyfriend there (well, he was British, but lived in Berlin). I highly recommend it.
Berghain / Panorama Bar
(click the name for Wikipedia history or go to www.berghain.de for
info). Located in Friedrichshain over the river from Kreuzberg, this
place is insane. I really don't know where to begin... Wow. Um, so,
yeah... Sheer and Dana told us after dinner that we should go to bed
and get up around 2am, get ready, and get to Berghain by 4am because it
would be peak time. WHAT? I honestly didn't believe it. I couldn't
sleep, so Dale and I stayed up chatting and drinking with one of Dana's
program managers, Hannah. Well, we woke them up and were on our way.
The building is a renovated power-plant. It looks a bit spooky and
intimidating walking up to it because there's nothing else around it.
Inside is a multi-level superclub concept. It's seedy. It has dark
areas for casual sex. It has multiple bars. By 6am, the main
dancefloor was pounding with an electro-heavy techno combination and
PACKED full of people. Upstairs in the Panorama Bar are the huge,
semi-Paladian style windows and the music was a bit more
house-inspired. ANYTHING goes at this club, which is probably why it
draws all walks of life. It was truly an experience, but I think I was
a bit too exhausted to fully experience it. By 9am or so, we were on
our way to the popular Sunday Flohmarkt (see below). Needless to say,
we slept most of that Sunday. For Atlantans, if you remember
Backstreet (1976 - 2004 R.I.P.), it is a similar concept (only bigger
and more over-the-top).
NBI (New Berliner Intiative) Club
(Prenzlauer Berg) - Didn't get a chance to attend (which is sad because
I was at the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn stop twice and it's right next
to it), but this is an indie club that hosts the infamous Berlin Hilton indie gay nights, as well as other notable events like DISKOMAT. Also visit: www.myspace.com/nbiclub.
Shopping:
Garage (Division of Kleidermarkt - Ahornstraße 2, 10787 Berlin-Schöneberg) Located in the West Berlin neighborhood of Schöneberg (which has an interesting history itself... Marlene Dietrich was born there, David Bowie and Iggy Pop resided there for a time, and it was the center of gay culture in the '20s before the Nazi's shut it down in the '30s), Garage is one of the largest thrift stores in Berlin with tons of cool finds. They usually have special deals where you can buy 1 Kg. for 13€.
Colours (Division of Kleidermarkt - Bergmannstraße 102, 10961 Berlin-Kreuzberg) A sister store to Garage in an area of Kreuzberg that very much reminds me of St. Mark's Place in the East Village, NYC. The same sorts of deals apply here as they do Garage.
Kastanienallee (Prenzlauer Berg) - THE hipster street of Berlin. Kastanienallee is lined with tons of independent designer boutiques, as well as cafes and restaurants. The fashion-forward kids are everywhere. GREAT people-watching.
Who Killed Bambi? (Prenzlauer Berg) - One of my favorite boutiques. Fantastic bags and t-shirts! It deserves its own mention!
COS (the location at Neue Sh
önhauser Straße 20, 10176 Berlin-Mitte) - Definitely a guilty pleasure store. COS is the upper-end line of H&M with stores throughout Britain, Belgium, Denmark, The Netherlands, and Germany. In other words, it's like the Banana Republic of H&M (only MUCH more fashion-forward than Banana Republic). Elizabeth introduced us to this store, and God bless her! Even though, it's pretty much mid-line for Germany, it's pricey for Americans with weak dollar against the euro. Dale bought an amazing 3/4 coat that fits him like a glove. Kudos!
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark
(Flea Market at Mauer Park - Prenzlauer Berg) - Sunday mornings never
felt so good....except for the Sunday morning we went. We came
directly from Berghain (as I noticed a few others did as well). I was
sleepy. I was cranky. It was a bit cold and drizzly. However, there
are TONS of great finds. Dana found a cute blue dress from H&M for
only a few euro. I wish I were a bit more awake. I would've taken
advantage of the awesome deals.
Sankt Oberholz (Mitte) - A GREAT coffee shop at Rosenthaler Platz in Mitte. Elizabeth brought us here, and it's her favorite. There's great music, free wifi, outdoor seating to view the bustling Rosenthaler Platz.
BERLIN ONLINE NIGHTLIFE / SHOPPING GUIDES:
[030] - All-inclusive nightlife listings guide (online and paper-based).
ein000 - Comprehensive online and paper-based listing of all Berlin boutiques by city neighborhood.
MUNICH
Sights:
Marienplatz (with New City Hall and Glockenspiel, as well as Mariensäule).
Nazi Tour (Dana gave us our own personal Nazi walking tour... However, there are professional ones offered: http://www.newmunichtours.com/thirdreich.htm
Englischer Garten (with Biergarten at the Chinesischer Turm - see the last paragraph before the listings for hypernlinks).
Nightlife (most are in Isarvorstadt):
Die Bank - Sleek bar with a blended crowd. Good music. I heard a house-y remix of "Bonafied Lovin'" by Chromeo that I hadn't heard before. It's a bit more mainstream than I would've liked, but still a cool spot for a drink.
X-Cess Bar (Kolosseumstaße 6, at Jahnstraße, 80469 Munich) - It has a wall of boobies! Seriously! It's a very small indie dive bar. Wasn't there for very long, but enjoyed the vibe.
Die Registratur - This place is a great indie dance club. It has a fairly large dancefloor and bar area. It has a separate smoking room open to the outside. You get to pick a little trinket at the door to take home with you. How cute. I think Boys Noize plays there this Friday.
BAU - This is definitely Munich's version of The Eagle in Atlanta. However, there were more younger gay guys who weren't quite a "bear-ish" as I expected. The downstairs where the bathrooms are is virtually pitch-black. Proceed with caution. Yikes.
BAR JEANS (Blumenstraße 15, 80331 Munich) - Supposed to be Munich's oldest gay bar. It's across the street from Die Registratur (above). We went there for a drink after we got stamped and waited for the crowd to pick up at Die Registratur. It's a small bar with a quaint crowd. We were enthralled with the gay porn playing at the bar.
Kleidermarkt See Garage and Colours above. The only difference is that it's twice the size and carries traditional Bavarian dress for men and women.
There are tons of tourist shops in the Old City, as well as international brand names. For the "Rodeo Drive" of Munich, you have to stroll down Maximilianstr
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